Got started about 1:00 PM from the top of Oberalppass where the train dropped us off. We didn’t even have to pedal for the first 6 miles. We were traveling downhill through hairpin turns. We had to stop several times to let the brakes cool down because the pads were starting to melt.
In this segment we had to descend over 4500 feet. The scenery was truly awe-inspiring. Lots of little hamlets dotting the mountainsides. My favorites were the herds of cows on the mountainsides wearing cowbells. It was like a huge wind chime echoing through the mountains. I love the architecture. The Swiss Chalet is definitely the style here. Many are tended with care, sporting red shingles, window boxes and Swiss flags.
In the town of Disentis, we followed the recommended bike path and ended up doing some off-roaring due to construction roadblocks. We wound our way back to the main road, favoring the road conditions over the traffic. Passed over stone arch bridges and through mountainside tunnels. Had some uphill climbs today as well. According the the guide book, we’ll encounter a few more hills tomorrow and then the terrain will gradually become a slow steady decline for most of the trip. Fingers crossed.
The end of the day featured an uphill climb into the town of Valendas where we found a camping site (with showers… yay) for 27 Swiss Francs. Enjoying the beautiful view of the mountains from our camp site and hitting the hay early. We are exhausted!
Author: Susan Dixon
Bicycle Trip: The Rhine River Tujetsch, Switzerland to Amsterdam, Netherlands: Getting there
Our goal was to get to Oberalp Pass to the start of the Rhine River. It wasn’t an easy journey.
Our luggage situation was pretty crazy. The folding tandem bike fits into two rolling suitcases. After the bike is assembled, the suitcases stack together on wheeled frame to become a trailer. So the challenge was finding something to carry all of camping gear and all of our clothes until we got to our destination to build the bike and trailer. We found some perfectly sized North Face duffle bags (that will fit in the suitcases later) that have straps to wear as backpacks. In addition, we carried 2 bike pannier bags with our carry-on items (passports, wallets, reading material, etc) which will later attach to the front wheel rack on the bike. So we each took one duffle bag, one suitcase and one pannier bag as we traversed between the modes of transportation.
On Monday, August 26, we left Lincoln NH at 1:30 PM on a bus headed to Boston Logan Airport.
We took an overnight trip out of Boston to Amsterdam, arriving around 9:15 AM. From the airport, we took a train to Paris. In Paris, we had to get on a local train to get from one side of Paris to the other. From Paris, we took a train to Zurich. In Zurich , we wandered around the underground train station for an hour before we figured out that we had to surface to find the tram that would bring us within a short walk to the hotel.
We finally got settled into our hotel in Zurich near midnight. Between the time change, and the bits of sleep we were able to get on the plane and the trains, we crashed and slept until noon.
Luckily, we had planned an extra day in Zurich because Mark’s friend, Billy, was going to be in Zurich on business the same day. Who would have thought two kids from Massena NY would somehow intersect in Zurich, Switzerland on the same day? The world gets smaller every day. We spent the afternoon figuring out the local train system in Zurich and exploring around Zürichsee (Lake Zurich). Enjoyed watching a bevy of swans, and walking through the tunnels of willow trees in a local park.
We met Billy and his daughter Sabrina around dinner time and set off to explore more of Zurich. They were both more familiar with the lay of the land, and brought us to the other side of the lake with the Opera House and some great outdoor bars. We stopped to enjoy a salsa party that seemed to be going on spontaneously in a large gazebo.
In the morning, we once again took the local train back to the train station in Zurich. From there, we had to take 5 more trains, the last two being cog railroads to take us up into the mountains. We traveled from Zurich to Arth-Goldman to Erstfeld to Goschenen to Andermatt to Oberalp Pass, pronouncing the names incorrectly at every stop along the way. The first three trains gradually took us from city to suburb to the country. The last two provided breathtaking views of the mountains and the amazing structures (tunnels, bridges, etc.) that have been built to access the Swiss Mountains. Didn’t take many pictures on the way up; hoping to stop and take pics on the way back down.
As I sit, typing, in a small room that serves as the Oberalp Pass train station, Mark is building the tandem. We hope to complete the first segment of our ride this afternoon, which will take us down 4500’ today.
Bicycle Trip: Lincoln NH to Phoenixville, PA – Day 18: Phoenixville, PA
Our last day of riding was a quick, easy one. Seventeen miles up the Schuylkill River Trail from Conshohocken to Phoenixville. Mostly level, paved or gravel path the entire way. Lots of different views from the industrial part of Norristown to the scenic lush greenery of Valley Forge. We passed the Big Apple Circus tents and trucks where they are currently visiting Oaks, PA. Passed through a quick thunderstorm that barely lasted long enough to stop and put on our raincoats. Saw dozens of turtles in the Schuylkill, swimming and sunning on logs and rocks.
Arrived in Phoenixville to be greeted by our daughter-in-law, Christine and our new 4 month old granddaughter, Ryleigh. Our son, Mike came home from work shortly after and we all had a great meal at Root Down in downtown Phoenixville. Feels good to be done with the ride.
Total: about 575 miles.
Bicycle Trip: Lincoln NH to Phoenixville, PA – Day 17: Conshohocken, PA
Today, we made it to Conshohocken, a suburb of Philadelphia. We are closing in on our goal. Not a lot of pictures today, because the ride was not really that remarkable…. basically sights that we all see every day. As we approached civilization, we first passed through farmlands, and fancy estates built on farmlands of the past. We graduated to modern subdivisions, where our biking maps had us turning left and right, weaving our way through mazes of residential streets. As we approached Conshohocken, we passed a lot of industrial parks, school complexes and businesses. The roads became busy with limited room for riding. We encountered many more stop lights, stop signs, and roads that were difficult to cross than any other day on our ride.
We finished today’s ride relatively early and grabbed an afternoon lunch at the Lucky Dog Gastropub in Conshohocken. Celebrated our second to last day with a couple of beers for a job well done. Then, we biked a couple blocks to the most comfortable night’s stay of the trip, the Residence Inn, a couple of blocks away.
The kids, Mike and Christine, who live only 30 minutes away, came by to visit and let us spend some time visiting with our new granddaughter, Ryleigh (4 months). We had a wonderful night with pizza and beer, and look forward to getting to their house tomorrow to spend a few days getting caught up and getting to know Ryleigh. We are truly blessed to have this family, and to have the opportunity to participate in this adventure.
Looking forward to tomorrow’s ride. We have 17 more miles down the Schuylkill River Trail, which will take us right into Phoenixville.
Bicycle Trip: Lincoln NH to Phoenixville PA – Day 16: New Hope, PA
Today was simply a spectacular riding day…. the right temperature, no precipitation, mostly flat roads, and great scenery. We estimated we did about 38 miles, and we both felt like it was “a day off” because it was so easy (unless you count the sore butts, that never seems to go away).
The entire day was along the Delaware River again. For the beginning of the trip, we were on a scenic road with the river and a railroad track on one side, and high rock cliffs on the other. We passed dozens of waterfalls running down the rock cliffs, some of them so strong they were showering us down on the street. I love riding alongside the railroad tracks because the grade of the road is always very slight.
We stopped at the Milford Market in Milford NJ for refreshments before continuing on State Road 29. This was the greatest road for cycling because we basically had a shoulder that was the width of an entire car lane. We were still paralleling the old railroad track which had been converted to a rail trail. We made record time riding through Frenchtown and on to Stockton. Stopped briefly at Bulls Island Recreation Area to visit a pedestrian bridge over the Delaware to Pennsylvania.
A few miles later we were already in Lambertville, NJ, which is just across the Delaware River from today’s destination in New Hope, Pennsylvania. These two towns were are like “sisters” on opposite sides of the river. They are both filled with cute boutiques, art galleries, and eclectic restaurants. Both towns were still decorated for their Pridefest celebration that happened last weekend. The streets were teeming with activity. If you ever find yourself in Bucks County, PA, I would highly recommend a visit to this area. Luckily, because we had such an easy biking day, we were able to spend a lot of time exploring shops and finding some great food at The Dubliner on the Delaware. Mark was excited to see the Delaware Canal system where boats were pulled by mule to deliver goods up and down the canal system.
A short 3 mile ride later, we settled into the Clarion Inn in New Hope….. the first chain hotel of this trip.
Bicycle Trip: Lincoln NH to Phoenixville PA – Day 15: Phillipsburg, NJ
Woke up in our campground with everything soaked and puddles everywhere. We did our best to shake out the water and pack up. Luckily, we took care of our showers the night before because the campground lost power during the storm which of course turned out the lights in the bathrooms, but also turned off the water pumps. We resorted to the old latrine to take care of business and moved on.
We were closer than we thought to the actual Delaware Water Gap. I’d driven by the exit numerous times, but I ‘d never stopped to admire the beauty. There is a pedestrian/bike walkway to cross the Delaware River from New Jersey to Pennsylvania and the scenery is breathtaking with tall cliffs and rushing water from a bridge that shakes as the 18 wheelers pass you on the other side of a Jersey barrier.
Once across the bridge, our path continued to follow the Delaware River throughout the day. Sometimes, we’d lose sight of it for a while, but we always worked our way back. Some of the roadway was down in the river valley, while other times we were scaling the foothills of the mountains, with the river far below us. We passed through Portland and Riverton, PA and then crossed the Delaware River (again) back to New Jersey.
After following the winding river and the hills and valleys for a couple dozen miles more, we pulled into Phillipsburg, NJ our stop for the night. Had some delicious chicken parm at Rocco’s Italian Restaurant and settled in at “America’s Best Value Inn” (just a clarification …. it is not the best by any means, but it’s a place to stay for the night). I spent the evening doing laundry and Mark spent the evening spreading out our wet gear from last night to let it dry properly. We have a few nights left before we reach our destination and it looks like we are getting too close to populated areas to find anymore campgrounds, so cheap hotels it is.
Bicycle Trip: Lincoln NH to Phoenixville PA – Day 14: Columbia, NJ
Left the Oakland Valley Campground around 8:00 AM. Somewhat worried about the severe thunderstorm warnings coming out of the weather system in the middle of the country. Our campsite was located on an unpaved road at the bottom of a huge hill, so our first task of the day was to push the bike to the top as riding was not possible. Already out of breath and tired before we even started riding.
Went through the small towns of Godeffroy and Huguenot, following the path of the Neversink River. Missed a turn right after Huguenot, which took us into the cute little town of Port Jarvis. Luckily our mistake did not add significant mileage and we had a quick tour of the town before finding the bridge over the Neversink to get back on track. After crossing the river, we found ourselves in New Jersey where the Neversink merged into the Delaware River.
Still following the Delaware River, we passed a couple of campgrounds on the way to Montague. However, it was too early to stop for the day, the weather was still great, and we were making great time on the level roads through the valley. Outside of Montague, we got on Old Mine Road which led us into the Delaware Water Gap National Recreation Area. The scenery was stunning, in particular the wildflowers coming up along the sides of the road. We stopped in Peters Valley to take a break and take a few pictures of a little artist enclave at the town’s lone intersection.
We set a goal of stopping to eat in Wallpack Village at the Wallpack Inn, which was probably the fanciest restaurant in our travels and then going to the Bear Creek Campground for the night. While waiting for our meal (French Dip Sandwiches made with good prime rib…. not just deli roast beef), we called the campground to find that while they had plenty of room for us, they weren’t really set up with amenities for tenters (meaning NO showers). Since that wasn’t going to work for two sweaty, stinky bikers, we pressed on.
As we continued through the Delaware Water Gap Recreation area, the hills got worse, and there were fewer signs of civilization. We got our hopes up when we passed the River Bend Campground, but it turned out to be for “group camping” only and required some special permit, so we pressed on. The severe thunderstorm warnings were still in the back of our minds. The hills on Old Mine Road continued to grow, and we were now WAY past our daily mileage limit. Once again, we were wondering if we had gambled too far by not just staying at the campground without showers and jumping in the river. Finally, we reached the Worthington State Forest Campground that had showers AND flush toilets. Hallelujah! We figure we did over 50 miles today. Exhausted, we showered, and set up our tent, and got settled just as the wind started to pick up. We had quite the lightening and thunder show until well into the night.
Bicycle Trip: Lincoln NH to Phoenixville PA – Day 13: Cuddeback, NY
Took the second rest day (and hopefully the last) of the trip. Most people might consider this a strange way to spend your 34th wedding anniversary, but it’s pretty “par for the course” for us. We rested, read, napped, did laundry, and celebrated with a dinner of canned Chunky Soup. Did a little planning for the remainder of the trip and hoping we can reach our destination in another 5 days of biking. One of the campground employees just popped by to let us know there will be a bonfire tonight, and we’re debating whether to trek up to the top of the hill where the activities are, or just hit the hay for an early start. I know I talk about the weather a lot, but it plays a pretty important role in our travel and tenting. The next few days are slated for scattered and severe thunderstorms throughout the afternoons, so we’ll be biking early to try to avoid them.
Bicycle Trip: Lincoln NH to Phoenixville PA – Day 12: Cuddeback, NY
Well, if yesterday was the most scenic day of the trip, today may have been the worst. Lots of unfavorable conditions: country roads, no shoulders, scary traffic, and unsafe passing. And did I mention the rain?
It wasn’t a favorite day for either of us. Lots of challenging hills and we both found ourselves losing steam. This was our seventh day in a row without taking a break, but the campground we were at was booked for the weekend, so we had to press on. We passed through several small towns without much in the way of services: Ulsterville, Burlingham, Bloomingburg, Winterton, and Otisville. Bloomingburg was the best bet for buying a few groceries and eating at a small deli. Once again, we were racing against the rain, which started up just as we made it to the deli to eat.
We rode in the rain to Otisville, but the rain stopped, and we were dry by the time we pulled into our campground in Cuddebackville. It’s a cute (but rustic) little campground with sites right along the Neversink River. I thought it was a funny name for a river. I had to look it up, and it turns out to be a “corruption” of the Algonquian language phrase meaning “mad river”. Because it is the weekend, the campground required a two night minimum, which was just as well for us, because we were ready to take a day without travel. We had a little sun shower while trying to set up camp, but otherwise the weather has been cooperative. These two tired bicycle campers went to bed early.
Bicycle Trip: Lincoln NH to Phoenixville PA – Day 11: Gardiner, New York
Absolutely glorious biking day. Quite possibly the best, most scenic day of the trip. The sun finally came out and the temperatures rose into the 60’s. We were able to shed our windbreakers, sweatshirts and cold weather bicycle gloves.
Because we had to ride off course into Millbrook last night, we started the morning by cutting back to our mapped route via 44 into Pleasant Valley, NY and then cutting over to 115 into the Poughkeepsie/Highland area.
On the Poughkeepsie side, we picked up the Dutchess Rail Trail which connects to the Walkway Over the Hudson, and then the Hudson Valley Rail Trail. The scenery and views were incredible, especially over the Hudson River. Well worth the trip if you are in NY and looking for a good bike trail to ride.
When the bike trail ended, we picked up 299 into New Paltz where we had lunch at Murphy’s Restaurant & Pub, and then walked through the downtown strip. The visit to New Paltz had special meaning to me because it is the town where my Mom re-started her life in her early 50’s. After years of raising a family she fulfilled a promise to herself to go to college and get her degree. After a couple years at MCC in Rochester, she moved to New Paltz to finish her Bachelors degree in Art History at SUNY. It was a big deal for her to get her own car, re-learn how to drive, and find roommates to live with while she went to school, without being dependent on anyone else. After obtaining her goal, she later joined us in Boston and made good use of her degree working for both the Museum of Fine Arts and the Institute of Contemporary Art in Boston. We lost Mom to leukemia almost 6 years ago now, but I like to think her spirit was with us today as we looked around her old stomping ground.
From New Paltz, we got on the Wallkill Valley Rail Trail. Unlike the earlier rail trails today, this one was a lot more primitive. It was unpaved, with sections of gravel, sections of mud, and sections of grass with vehicle tracks. We were glad to ride out of it into Gardiner as our bike setup wasn’t really made for that kind of riding.
Once in Gardiner, we headed to our campground. Now that the weather has turned a bit, we are back in our groove. The most convenient campground turned out to be a Yogi Bear Jellystone Campground…. a little more developed than the average campground (complete with water park and arcade), but a place to rest our weary selves all the same. It’s pretty empty right now, but we are told they are fully booked for the weekend, so we are looking forward to a quiet night of laundry (again) and reading. More rain is forecast for the morning, but we are hoping for a window of opportunity to ride on, since we can’t stay here.