Bicycle Trip: Lincoln NH to Phoenixville, PA – Day 18: Phoenixville, PA

Our last day of riding was a quick, easy one. Seventeen miles up the Schuylkill River Trail from Conshohocken to Phoenixville. Mostly level, paved or gravel path the entire way. Lots of different views from the industrial part of Norristown to the scenic lush greenery of Valley Forge. We passed the Big Apple Circus tents and trucks where they are currently visiting Oaks, PA. Passed through a quick thunderstorm that barely lasted long enough to stop and put on our raincoats. Saw dozens of turtles in the Schuylkill, swimming and sunning on logs and rocks.

Arrived in Phoenixville to be greeted by our daughter-in-law, Christine and our new 4 month old granddaughter, Ryleigh. Our son, Mike came home from work shortly after and we all had a great meal at Root Down in downtown Phoenixville. Feels good to be done with the ride.

Total: about 575 miles.


Getting ready to leave the Residence Inn in Conshohocken. Last ride.
Passing through Norristown
Norristown
A pretty spot along the Schuylkill River.
Riding through Valley Forge.
Made it to Phoenixville .
A welcome sight.
Another welcome sight. Worth the ride.
A Family outing to Root Down, a Phoenixville Brewery in a former root beer factory.
Eileen Cornish, my former co-worker from St. Therese in San Diego now lives 20 minutes away from the kids. She came out to meet the grandbaby.

Bicycle Trip: Lincoln NH to Phoenixville, PA – Day 17: Conshohocken, PA

Today, we made it to Conshohocken, a suburb of Philadelphia. We are closing in on our goal. Not a lot of pictures today, because the ride was not really that remarkable…. basically sights that we all see every day. As we approached civilization, we first passed through farmlands, and fancy estates built on farmlands of the past. We graduated to modern subdivisions, where our biking maps had us turning left and right, weaving our way through mazes of residential streets. As we approached Conshohocken, we passed a lot of industrial parks, school complexes and businesses. The roads became busy with limited room for riding. We encountered many more stop lights, stop signs, and roads that were difficult to cross than any other day on our ride.

We finished today’s ride relatively early and grabbed an afternoon lunch at the Lucky Dog Gastropub in Conshohocken. Celebrated our second to last day with a couple of beers for a job well done. Then, we biked a couple blocks to the most comfortable night’s stay of the trip, the Residence Inn, a couple of blocks away.

The kids, Mike and Christine, who live only 30 minutes away, came by to visit and let us spend some time visiting with our new granddaughter, Ryleigh (4 months). We had a wonderful night with pizza and beer, and look forward to getting to their house tomorrow to spend a few days getting caught up and getting to know Ryleigh. We are truly blessed to have this family, and to have the opportunity to participate in this adventure.

Looking forward to tomorrow’s ride. We have 17 more miles down the Schuylkill River Trail, which will take us right into Phoenixville.

The library in Horsham, PA where we stopped for a break.
The Lucky Dog Gastropub in Conshohocken, PA

Bicycle Trip: Lincoln NH to Phoenixville PA – Day 16: New Hope, PA

Today was simply a spectacular riding day…. the right temperature, no precipitation, mostly flat roads, and great scenery. We estimated we did about 38 miles, and we both felt like it was “a day off” because it was so easy (unless you count the sore butts, that never seems to go away).

The entire day was along the Delaware River again. For the beginning of the trip, we were on a scenic road with the river and a railroad track on one side, and high rock cliffs on the other. We passed dozens of waterfalls running down the rock cliffs, some of them so strong they were showering us down on the street. I love riding alongside the railroad tracks because the grade of the road is always very slight.

We stopped at the Milford Market in Milford NJ for refreshments before continuing on State Road 29. This was the greatest road for cycling because we basically had a shoulder that was the width of an entire car lane. We were still paralleling the old railroad track which had been converted to a rail trail. We made record time riding through Frenchtown and on to Stockton. Stopped briefly at Bulls Island Recreation Area to visit a pedestrian bridge over the Delaware to Pennsylvania.

A few miles later we were already in Lambertville, NJ, which is just across the Delaware River from today’s destination in New Hope, Pennsylvania. These two towns were are like “sisters” on opposite sides of the river. They are both filled with cute boutiques, art galleries, and eclectic restaurants. Both towns were still decorated for their Pridefest celebration that happened last weekend. The streets were teeming with activity. If you ever find yourself in Bucks County, PA, I would highly recommend a visit to this area. Luckily, because we had such an easy biking day, we were able to spend a lot of time exploring shops and finding some great food at The Dubliner on the Delaware. Mark was excited to see the Delaware Canal system where boats were pulled by mule to deliver goods up and down the canal system.

A short 3 mile ride later, we settled into the Clarion Inn in New Hope….. the first chain hotel of this trip.

Milford Market. Tempted by the sale of a case of Yuengling for $20, but it was too heavy to take with us. LOL
Bulls Island Recreation Area
Pedestrian Bridge over the Delaware from New Jersey to Pennsylvania
View from the bridge.
The adorable town of Lambertville, NJ decorated for Pridefest.
Boutique in Lambertville.
Old train depot converted to a restaurant. Lambertville.
View of New Hope, PA from the bridge.
Crossing BACK into Pennsylvania (again)
Crossing into New Hope, PA in Bucks County
The Dubliner on the Delaware. Great food and great service. New Hope, PA.
The view of Lambertville from New Hope.

Bicycle Trip: Lincoln NH to Phoenixville PA – Day 15: Phillipsburg, NJ

Woke up in our campground with everything soaked and puddles everywhere. We did our best to shake out the water and pack up. Luckily, we took care of our showers the night before because the campground lost power during the storm which of course turned out the lights in the bathrooms, but also turned off the water pumps. We resorted to the old latrine to take care of business and moved on.

We were closer than we thought to the actual Delaware Water Gap. I’d driven by the exit numerous times, but I ‘d never stopped to admire the beauty. There is a pedestrian/bike walkway to cross the Delaware River from New Jersey to Pennsylvania and the scenery is breathtaking with tall cliffs and rushing water from a bridge that shakes as the 18 wheelers pass you on the other side of a Jersey barrier.

Once across the bridge, our path continued to follow the Delaware River throughout the day. Sometimes, we’d lose sight of it for a while, but we always worked our way back. Some of the roadway was down in the river valley, while other times we were scaling the foothills of the mountains, with the river far below us. We passed through Portland and Riverton, PA and then crossed the Delaware River (again) back to New Jersey.

After following the winding river and the hills and valleys for a couple dozen miles more, we pulled into Phillipsburg, NJ our stop for the night. Had some delicious chicken parm at Rocco’s Italian Restaurant and settled in at “America’s Best Value Inn” (just a clarification …. it is not the best by any means, but it’s a place to stay for the night). I spent the evening doing laundry and Mark spent the evening spreading out our wet gear from last night to let it dry properly. We have a few nights left before we reach our destination and it looks like we are getting too close to populated areas to find anymore campgrounds, so cheap hotels it is.

Crossing into Pennsylvania across the Delaware Water Gap on the I-80 Bridge.
View from the Delaware Water Gap crossing.
Looking back across to New Jersey from the Pennsylvania side….. not the Jersey you see from the Turnpike.
Roadside wildflowers were in bloom everywhere.
This guy was sunning himself in the middle of the road. Mark “helped” him to the shoulder with a big stick. I hope he stayed safe.
Crossing BACK into New Jersey in Belvidere
The bridge back to Jersey.
Rocco’s Italian Restaurant for a late lunch/early dinner in Phillipsburg. Hung out a little while longer to let a quick thunderstorm pass over.

Bicycle Trip: Lincoln NH to Phoenixville PA – Day 14: Columbia, NJ

Left the Oakland Valley Campground around 8:00 AM. Somewhat worried about the severe thunderstorm warnings coming out of the weather system in the middle of the country. Our campsite was located on an unpaved road at the bottom of a huge hill, so our first task of the day was to push the bike to the top as riding was not possible. Already out of breath and tired before we even started riding.

Went through the small towns of Godeffroy and Huguenot, following the path of the Neversink River. Missed a turn right after Huguenot, which took us into the cute little town of Port Jarvis. Luckily our mistake did not add significant mileage and we had a quick tour of the town before finding the bridge over the Neversink to get back on track. After crossing the river, we found ourselves in New Jersey where the Neversink merged into the Delaware River.

Still following the Delaware River, we passed a couple of campgrounds on the way to Montague. However, it was too early to stop for the day, the weather was still great, and we were making great time on the level roads through the valley. Outside of Montague, we got on Old Mine Road which led us into the Delaware Water Gap National Recreation Area. The scenery was stunning, in particular the wildflowers coming up along the sides of the road. We stopped in Peters Valley to take a break and take a few pictures of a little artist enclave at the town’s lone intersection.

We set a goal of stopping to eat in Wallpack Village at the Wallpack Inn, which was probably the fanciest restaurant in our travels and then going to the Bear Creek Campground for the night. While waiting for our meal (French Dip Sandwiches made with good prime rib…. not just deli roast beef), we called the campground to find that while they had plenty of room for us, they weren’t really set up with amenities for tenters (meaning NO showers). Since that wasn’t going to work for two sweaty, stinky bikers, we pressed on.

As we continued through the Delaware Water Gap Recreation area, the hills got worse, and there were fewer signs of civilization. We got our hopes up when we passed the River Bend Campground, but it turned out to be for “group camping” only and required some special permit, so we pressed on. The severe thunderstorm warnings were still in the back of our minds. The hills on Old Mine Road continued to grow, and we were now WAY past our daily mileage limit. Once again, we were wondering if we had gambled too far by not just staying at the campground without showers and jumping in the river. Finally, we reached the Worthington State Forest Campground that had showers AND flush toilets. Hallelujah! We figure we did over 50 miles today. Exhausted, we showered, and set up our tent, and got settled just as the wind started to pick up. We had quite the lightening and thunder show until well into the night.

Our 5th state on this trip (only because the states are tiny in New England.
An old cemetery by the side of the road in Layton, NJ
Many of the stones were so worn, you couldn’t read them. We found some from the 1800’s and some as recent as 1950.
The road through the Delaware Water Gap National Recreation Area. (Old Mine Road)
Local craft store in Peter’s Valley.
School of Craft in Peter’s Valley.
A bridge over a creek near Walpack Center.
Taking a break near Walpack Center.
Great restaurant with great views .
Boat launch in Worthington State Forest Campground.
Phew….Found a place to stay…. only hours before the crazy lightning storms blew in.

Bicycle Trip: Lincoln NH to Phoenixville PA – Day 13: Cuddeback, NY

Took the second rest day (and hopefully the last) of the trip. Most people might consider this a strange way to spend your 34th wedding anniversary, but it’s pretty “par for the course” for us. We rested, read, napped, did laundry, and celebrated with a dinner of canned Chunky Soup. Did a little planning for the remainder of the trip and hoping we can reach our destination in another 5 days of biking. One of the campground employees just popped by to let us know there will be a bonfire tonight, and we’re debating whether to trek up to the top of the hill where the activities are, or just hit the hay for an early start. I know I talk about the weather a lot, but it plays a pretty important role in our travel and tenting. The next few days are slated for scattered and severe thunderstorms throughout the afternoons, so we’ll be biking early to try to avoid them.

Bicycle Trip: Lincoln NH to Phoenixville PA – Day 12: Cuddeback, NY

Well, if yesterday was the most scenic day of the trip, today may have been the worst. Lots of unfavorable conditions: country roads, no shoulders, scary traffic, and unsafe passing. And did I mention the rain?

It wasn’t a favorite day for either of us. Lots of challenging hills and we both found ourselves losing steam. This was our seventh day in a row without taking a break, but the campground we were at was booked for the weekend, so we had to press on. We passed through several small towns without much in the way of services: Ulsterville, Burlingham, Bloomingburg, Winterton, and Otisville. Bloomingburg was the best bet for buying a few groceries and eating at a small deli. Once again, we were racing against the rain, which started up just as we made it to the deli to eat.

We rode in the rain to Otisville, but the rain stopped, and we were dry by the time we pulled into our campground in Cuddebackville. It’s a cute (but rustic) little campground with sites right along the Neversink River. I thought it was a funny name for a river. I had to look it up, and it turns out to be a “corruption” of the Algonquian language phrase meaning “mad river”. Because it is the weekend, the campground required a two night minimum, which was just as well for us, because we were ready to take a day without travel. We had a little sun shower while trying to set up camp, but otherwise the weather has been cooperative. These two tired bicycle campers went to bed early.

The Deli in Bloomingburg where we found a hot lunch. The daily special was macaroni and cheese with chicken and broccoli. Yum.
Grocery store in Bloomingburg where we picked up canned soup and other snacks to get us through the weekend. There are no restaurants near the campground and we want to stay off the bike on our rest day.
Washington’s bodyguard, buried alongside the road in Cuddebackville.
Our campsite on the Neversink River (which is a tributary to the Delaware).
Another view of the Neversink River

Bicycle Trip: Lincoln NH to Phoenixville PA – Day 11: Gardiner, New York

Absolutely glorious biking day. Quite possibly the best, most scenic day of the trip. The sun finally came out and the temperatures rose into the 60’s. We were able to shed our windbreakers, sweatshirts and cold weather bicycle gloves.

Because we had to ride off course into Millbrook last night, we started the morning by cutting back to our mapped route via 44 into Pleasant Valley, NY and then cutting over to 115 into the Poughkeepsie/Highland area.

On the Poughkeepsie side, we picked up the Dutchess Rail Trail which connects to the Walkway Over the Hudson, and then the Hudson Valley Rail Trail. The scenery and views were incredible, especially over the Hudson River. Well worth the trip if you are in NY and looking for a good bike trail to ride.

When the bike trail ended, we picked up 299 into New Paltz where we had lunch at Murphy’s Restaurant & Pub, and then walked through the downtown strip. The visit to New Paltz had special meaning to me because it is the town where my Mom re-started her life in her early 50’s. After years of raising a family she fulfilled a promise to herself to go to college and get her degree. After a couple years at MCC in Rochester, she moved to New Paltz to finish her Bachelors degree in Art History at SUNY. It was a big deal for her to get her own car, re-learn how to drive, and find roommates to live with while she went to school, without being dependent on anyone else. After obtaining her goal, she later joined us in Boston and made good use of her degree working for both the Museum of Fine Arts and the Institute of Contemporary Art in Boston. We lost Mom to leukemia almost 6 years ago now, but I like to think her spirit was with us today as we looked around her old stomping ground.

From New Paltz, we got on the Wallkill Valley Rail Trail. Unlike the earlier rail trails today, this one was a lot more primitive. It was unpaved, with sections of gravel, sections of mud, and sections of grass with vehicle tracks. We were glad to ride out of it into Gardiner as our bike setup wasn’t really made for that kind of riding.

Once in Gardiner, we headed to our campground. Now that the weather has turned a bit, we are back in our groove. The most convenient campground turned out to be a Yogi Bear Jellystone Campground…. a little more developed than the average campground (complete with water park and arcade), but a place to rest our weary selves all the same. It’s pretty empty right now, but we are told they are fully booked for the weekend, so we are looking forward to a quiet night of laundry (again) and reading. More rain is forecast for the morning, but we are hoping for a window of opportunity to ride on, since we can’t stay here.

Dutchess Rail Trail
View from the Walkway over the Hudson.
View from the Walkway over the Hudson.
View from the Walkway over the Hudson.
Murphy’s Restaurant and Pub in New Paltz, NY.
Village of New Paltz
My view of the Wallkill Valley Rail Trail (if I lean way out to look over Mark’s shoulder).
Wallkill Valley Rail Trail.
Arriving at Yogi Bear’s (smarter than the average bear) Campground.
The rain and cold are gone and the tent is back.

Bicycle Trip: Lincoln NH to Phoenixville PA – Day 10: Millbrook, New York

It was hard leaving the warmth and hospitality of Shirley’s house to get back on the bike and brave the cold temperatures.

For our efforts, we were rewarded by a huge downhill out of Norfolk. Went 6 or 7 miles in no time at all and found ourselves in North Canaan where there was a much needed grocery store and a much appreciated Dunkin Donuts. As with most of our stops, the locals were curious about our “set up” and asked a lot of questions about our trip, our origin, and our destination.

After taking a break to stock up (and enjoy a donut), we attacked a long, steep hill into Salisbury. The side-by-side towns of Salisbury and Lakeville were very quaint, some of the most beautiful scenery we’ve seen in Connecticut. About 4 miles past Lakeville, we crossed into the lower, east corner of New York State. In Millerton, NY, we enjoyed some lunch specials at Four Brothers Pizza Inn & Restaurant.

After lunch, we picked up the Harlem Valley Rail Trail, a beautiful 10 mile converted rail line alongside streams, bogs, and farms. The best part of the Rail Trails is the level grade, easily the most enjoyable part of today’s ride. I highly recommend this trail to any locals in the area if you haven’t yet explored it. When we reached the end point in Wassaic, we started making plans to get to a motel in Dover Plains (it’s going to rain again tonight).

We were disappointed to find that the motel in Dover Plains was full, so we had to find another alternative.

Unfortunately, we weren’t finding many motels or open rooms, so the only option we could find added another 10 miles to our day. Ugh! To add insult to injury, the “shortcut” we choose brought us up Deep Hollow Road which was a HUGE hill (Google Maps fooled us on the elevation profile). We finally rolled into the Cottonwood Motel in Millbrook, NY around 4:30 PM (a long day). Our search for accommodations took us about 5 miles off our route, so we’ll have to figure out our way back tomorrow.

Saying goodbye to Shirl.
Cows in Salisbury .
Historical cemetery in Salisbury.
War memorial in Salisbury.
Crossing into New York State.
Harlem Valley Rail Trail with a historic school house in the background.

Bicycle Trip: Lincoln NH to Phoenixville PA – Day 9: Norfolk, Connecticut

Well, if yesterday was the “downhill day”, today was the uphill day. The uphill out of Granby on 219 seemed to go on forever. Just when you think you reached the top, you go around a curve and see that the uphill continues. Ugh.

Once again, we started early in the morning, because once again, we were trying to beat the rain coming around 2:00 PM (beginning to sound repetitive).

After finally reaching the top of the monster hill, we descended to the Saville Dam over the Barkhamsted Reservoir. It was a magnificent structure, and provided a nice stop to rest our legs. After crossing into Pleasant Valley, we began another long uphill climb following the Farmington River, and then the Sandy Brook, upstream. Saw several fisherman, braving the cold temperatures to stand in the river fishing as we passed through Riverton, Robertsville and Colebrook. The grade was easier to pedal, but it continued for over 10 miles.

Took a break in Robertsville at the General Store. Indulged in Diet Cokes and chocolate chip cookies just for the opportunity to come in and warm up for a few minutes. The temperatures continue to be unseasonably cold. Took a little walk in “Riverton Center” and stumbled upon the historic location of the factory for the “famous” Hitchcock chairs. Since neither of us know anything about antiques, we had to look up the history of Lambert Hitchcock and his chairs.

Took another break in Colebrook to eat a quick meal at the Colebrook General Store, which we were told to be the oldest continuously operating general store in Connecticut. We were a novelty there, as everyone else coming in and out knew each other. It was clearly the social center of the small town, complete with an old fellow having coffee outside (in 38 degree temperature) talking to everyone coming and going. After eating and charging our phones, we headed into our destination for the day, Norfolk, CT.

As luck would have it, my college roommate Shirley heard of our travels on Facebook, and realized we were passing within two blocks from her house. She and her husband Van, both from Clarkson University, kindly invited us in for a night of comfortable beds, delicious chili, homemade brew, laundry, and wonderful warm conversation. We had a great time, and were grateful to be spoiled so thoroughly after several cold days and nights. Mark and Van share a joint interest in sailing, and we made a commitment to get together this summer to sail together. As for me, I plan to spend more time with Shirley learning about her passion for quilting.

Saville Dam over the Barkhamsted Reservoir
Saville Dam
Saville Dam
Riverton General Store
Former site of the Hitchcock Chair Factory
Former site of the Hitchcock Chair Factory
The Hitchcock Chair.
And people think WE are crazy….. it is sooooo cold here.
Crossing Sandy Brook into Colebrook
Old schoolhouse on the way into Colebrook
Colebrook Store – Oldest continually operating general store in Connecticut.
We were treated like family.
Mark and Sue, Shirley and Van