Boat Trip: Little River, SC to Plattsburgh, NY – DAY 23 : Atlantic City, NJ

 We got a fairly early start out of Canyon Club Marina, but we definitely weren’t the first ones out.  The security of being tied to a dock, after several rough nights at anchor, definitely lead to a better night’s sleep.  It was nice not waking up several times during the night to check the boat’s position.

Cape May is essentially the start of the New Jersey Intracoastal Waterway.  Originally, we planned on starting up the ICW from Cape May, but based on the recommendation from our Navionics program, we decided to go out to the ocean to do the first leg of our trip up the NJ coast.  The weather was looking perfect and the winds and swells were predicted to be light.  Captain Mark was curious to try a day out on the open ocean, not to mention that it would save 5 miles of travel and avoid 5 mechanical bridges where we would have to wait for openings.   As we’ve learned, some bridges open on request, others have set schedules, and some simply won’t open during certain hours to accommodate rush hour traffic.  No matter which type of bridge they are, they definitely add more time to our travel. 

As it turned out, the trip on the ocean was a good decision.  As predicted, the water was relatively gentle, the winds were light and the air was warm.  The downside was that open water is pretty boring.  The pilot can set a bearing on the auto-pilot and then basically do nothing except watch for other boat traffic and make small adjustments periodically.   We did see some very large pods of dolphins a fair distance from the boat, but we’ve noticed they are smart and don’t come very close to power boats.  With our sailboat in San Diego, they will actually come right up to the boat, follow us and surf our wake when we are running under sail. 

Our destination for the day was Atlantic City.  We could see Atlantic City from a long way off, due to the tall building and distinctive profile.  We had done a little research on the way toward Atlantic City Harbor, which indicated that there were free 4-hour docks where we could come ashore with our dinghy a short distance from a suitable anchorage.  While reading through the comments of other boaters, Mark learned that there was actually a large 4-hour dock, where we might be able to pull right in with our trawler, go do our sight-seeing and then move to our anchorage.  We decided that would be a better option if there was room at the dock, so we turned in the Harbor to circle around and scope out the situation.  Sure enough, there was a long face dock, but there were already two good size trawlers on it, and not room for a third.  There was also a shorter face dock, also labeled “4 hours”, but we weren’t quite sure if we could fit on it, without sticking off the end.  We circled again, and decided to give it a go.  We managed to get on the dock with only a little jolt to the front of the boat, and it was “good enough” as our boat only stuck out a couple of feet in the back.   We tied up securely and got ready to head out, first trying to figure out if we needed to “check in” somewhere.  We knew this dock had a security gate on it and we would have to get the code from someone in order to get back to our boat later. 

As we were getting ready, a man came down the dock towards us.  We figured this was probably the dockmaster, either ready to “check us in” or tell us that we couldn’t fit on the dock.  As it turned out, he was another boater, who owned the boat tied up next to us.  He explained that this dock is part of the Gardners Basin, connected with the “Atlantic City Aquarium”, which was still closed due to Covid, and as far as he could tell, there was no dockmaster, and no one enforcing the parking.  It was his third time to Atlantic City since Covid, and he has used the 4-hour dock, even staying over-night, without anyone seeming to care, as it was officially “closed”.   We looked around, and it appeared that there were many other boaters doing the same, even people parked at the “seasonal rental” docks which were probably not being rented if there was no one overseeing the docks.  Always a stickler for following the rules, Sidekick Sue insisted we stop in at the Aquarium to see if we could “check in”, but, just as our neighbor explained, it was closed due to Covid.  So…. It looked like we had a free dock for the night (Captain Mark thinks it was because he was wearing his lucky shirt).  We figured the worst that could happen was someone telling us to move after 4 hours, but it didn’t happen.  The last concern was the code lock on the gate, but Captain Mark and his engineering mind quickly figured out that he could reach through the gate and turn the doorknob on the other side without too much contortion.  So, it was decided we were spending the night.

It was about 1 mile walk down to the start of the Atlantic City boardwalk.  That first part of the boardwalk was largely undeveloped.  It appears that perhaps it is an expansion of the original boardwalk, making room for more development in the future.  But as we continued to walk, the number of casinos, hotels, and stores started to increase.  We agreed it was the longest, widest boardwalk we had ever walked on, but it was pretty deserted (perhaps because it was Tuesday afternoon?).  We took our obligatory trip into one casino, mostly just to use the restroom, but also to admire the art and the architecture; we really aren’t gamblers, so for us, casinos are just entertainment.  We walked the boardwalk, watching the people, and stopping in a few interesting stores until Sidekick Sue had accumulated most of her Fitbit steps for the day.  Since we still had to walk all the way back (probably 2.5 miles) back to our boat, we decided to cut diagonally across Atlantic City, stopping at a grocery store for a few pints of ice cream (thriftier than buying cones on the boardwalk).  The areas off the strip are a bit “seedier”, but we had fun pointing out the names of the streets that the game of Monopoly made famous years ago…. we walked on Baltic, Mediterranean, crossing North Carolina, Pennsylvania and Virginia. 

By the time we got back to the boat, we both agreed that our snack had ruined our dinner appetites, so we would forgo the meal for the night.  Sidekick Sue finally finished the jigsaw puzzle she had started during the storm and went to work finalizing the bills for the month of May.  Captain Mark jumped on a bike to ride to the liquor store to “provision”, and spent most of the evening looking over route plans for the next few days.  It appears some more nasty weather is coming for a couple of days near the end of the week, so we need to have some options ready if we need to stop again for a night or two.  Tomorrow, we plan on trying the NJ ICW to compare against the ocean trip we made today, but chances are, we will stay in the ICW for the next few days anyway, with bad weather coming.  As with most nights, we watched a few Youtube videos on our favorite “boating” channels, although without an electric hookup, we had to watch via the small screen (iPad) which we can charge off the battery. 

Passing by Wildwood, NJ on our first trip on the ocean.
Today’s trip.
Approaching Atlantic City Harbor.
More of the strip as we approached Atlantic City.
The Wayward Explorer squeezed onto a dock where she doesn’t really fit. But it turned out to be a free dock for the night, and a very good decision.
Inside the Ocean Casino Resort.
House of Blues and Hard Rock.
View of the strip, which we thought would be more crowded.
The view in the other direction.

Boat Trip: Little River, SC to Plattsburgh, NY – DAY 22 : Cape May, NJ (one last time)

Ahhh!  The calm after the storm.  Monday morning found us still at anchor, but we had a decent night’s sleep, now that the winds have died down and we could stop worrying (so much) about the boat dragging anchor during the night.

We spent a relaxing morning, catching up with family and friends as we waited for the local marinas to open up. We received the news that our Jeep was successfully moved (by sister Cathy and brother-in-law Todd) to our son Mike’s house outside of Philly.  We are appreciative of their generous help and glad they got to spend some time with their nephew and his beautiful growing family. 

The first marina we called was full, but we were able to get a spot at Canyon Club Resort Marina.  It was more expensive than we would have liked, but they had a discount for us card-carrying members of the AGLCA (America’s Great Loop Cruisers’ Association).  After 4 nights of rough seas in the Cape May Harbor, it was tough pulling up the anchor, it was really dug in.  We saw another boater who had left during the storm come back to retrieve his anchor that he was apparently unable to raise during the storm.  He had tied a float to it, so he could find it and return with a TowBoat service to help retrieve it. 

So, we moved to our marina, and sure enough…. it was very resort-like…. attached to a fancy condo complex with tons of boat slips.  It had everything we needed and more.  You could even get diesel pumped to your boat while in the slip instead of having to move to the fuel dock.  They had a beautiful infinity pool, complete with metal palm tree sculptures, but it was a bit cold for swimming, and we were there to take care of chores, not vacation.  The dock tenders joked that most people come in to the marina to weather the storm, not after the storm, but they were very helpful in getting us tied down and settled in. 

In the marina, we noticed a bunch of floating shells.  We had seen them several days ago when we were first motoring in to Cape May.  Captain Mark thought they were turtle shells, or perhaps some type of water plant.  Now that we could see them on closer inspection, we realized they were horseshoe crabs, distinctive because of the long pointy tail.  They were clearly not alive, as many of them were rotting, and only partially there.  Further research indicated that they weren’t the actual horseshoe crabs at all…. they were molts from when the crabs grew a larger exoskeleton and shed their smaller one.  Sidekick Sue found this fascinating, as she always loves watching and learning about wildlife wherever we go. 

Once in the marina, Captain Mark took care of all the “regular” chores… the pump-out, filling the water tanks, and bringing a week’s worth of trash to the dumpster.   While we could have taken advantage of fueling right at our slip, Captain Mark opted not to.  We still have a half a tank of diesel and the rumors are that one should “travel light” through the New Jersey ICW because the waters can get a tad shallow, and this can help avoid grounding. 

With the boat chores done, we moved on to provisioning.  In order to satisfy the Fitbit Gods (who know we haven’t been off the boat to walk in 4 days), we decided to walk into town to the Acme grocery store (about 2.5 miles away) to get a few bags of groceries.  We bought the “lighter” items from our list, with a plan to come back for the heavier items.  We also found snacks for breakfast, since we’ve been out of eggs for the last few days and have been improvising for breakfast.  In honor of Memorial Day, Sidekick Sue had a delicious red white and blue vanilla yogurt parfait with strawberries and blue berries and granola crunchies.  Captain Mark was happy with an apple and some popcorn chips. 

On the way back, the Explorers scoped out dinner options, as they decided they deserved a dinner out after 4 days at anchor.  Sidekick Sue was craving spaghetti with meatballs, so they made note of Tony’s Pizzeria and Restaurant.   Sidekick Sue also found a wonderful shop full of antique consignments, and added a little terracotta turkey to the collection of Thanksgiving décor she has been collecting on this trip.  As our kids have grown and married, Thanksgiving has sort of become the “Dixon” holiday, so Sidekick Sue has been trying to find cute decorations… much more challenging than Christmas decorations. 

After putting away the groceries, the Explorers suited up for grocery shopping part 2.  We got out the big Osprey backpacks, the folding bikes and the bike basket to head back to ACME for the items we needed that were too heavy and bulky to carry on foot (seltzer water, flat water, juice, etc.).  We are still kicking ourselves for forgetting to bring our “granny cart” on this journey; it would have come in handy.  So, we biked back into town, but before shopping, we wandered around a bit through a charming pedestrian shopping area on Washington Street and then out to the beach.  There were rows and rows of adorable Victorian houses, restored with period colors and architecture.  Following the theme, there were horse and buggy rides all around the square. 

Finally, we biked back over to the ACME.  Each of us carried 2 twelve-packs of seltzer water in our backpacks and Captain Mark balanced another bag of groceries in his bike basket.  The ride back was manageable, but we had to be very careful about maneuvering with all the extra weight on our backs and bikes; sudden stops, starts and turns had to be avoided at all costs.  Once safely back to the boat, Sidekick Sue did the laundry (and at least got to sit in the sun by the pool and read in between loads).  Captain Mark refueled the gas for the dinghy, and made another courageous solo trip back to the ACME, stocking up on more water while we had the chance to have our bikes on land. 

After an exhausting day of chores, we headed out to eat.  The marina that we were staying in was located on the opposite side of the Cape May Canal than the shopping and the restaurants.  Therefore, each trip we made, required we cross a long tall bridge over the canal.  To get on and off the bridge, we had to use crosswalks because the pedestrian walkway was only on one side of the bridge.  Standing in the crosswalks, waiting for someone to stop, the Explorers confirmed that they are now back in the land of the rude drivers.  It doesn’t surprise us, after living in the Boston area for nearly 20 years, but it is disheartening to see the city centers in the northeast living up to their stereotype.  Dinner at Tony’s may have been our first real indoor eating experience in over a year and a half (we’ve been in some “almost indoor” patios, but not completely enclosed).  Not to worry as there was only one other table in use the whole time we were there.  Apparently, most of Tony’s business is takeout these days. 

After dinner, we made the walk back to our boat again.  We had the end slip on a very long dock, and with all of our trips and errands, it felt like we had walked it a hundred times (and we would walk it again in a few minutes to get to the “real” showers).   Over and over, we walked by the same people, getting their boats ready to go out for Memorial Day, and then again when they returned.  Our efforts were rewarded when Sidekick Sue’s Fitbit announced she had broken her personal record with 25,000 steps on this day of errands.  (Take that, Fitbit Gods)

We settled in for a quiet night.  Took advantage of our electricity to watch the big TV.  Our latest binge is the YouTube channel of the “Millennium Falcon”, a young couple out of Australia that has been vlogging their sailboat adventures for the last few years (thanks Carrie for the recommendation).  Sadly, Captain Mark was too tired to stay awake for the adventures, so he retired, while Sidekick Sue worked on finishing up the jigsaw she had started during the boring time at anchor.  Tomorrow, we (finally) get back on the trail. 

Pedestrian street mall on Washington Street in Cape May.
Many streets lined with the cutest Victorian homes, restored to the tiniest detail.
At the beach in Cape May.
Horse and buggy rides all around the square.